Draping a Sundress

 Things You’ll Need

                 L-square, sharp pencil or marker, calculator, 1/8" black art tape, lots of pins, scissors, tape measure.                                                                                     

                              

Draping is a technique designers use to create patterns for the fashion industry. On one hand, draping uses a lot more fabric than making a traditional paper pattern, but it can also take less time, particularly for asymmetrical or pleated designs. 

There are 3 (three) major draping styles; Sloper Draping, Engineering Design, and Free-style Draping. For this sundress I used Engineering Design, but my favorite is free-form draping where  I can let the fabric dictate the design.

I like to drape only one side of the mannequin if I'm not doing an asymmetric design; it saves fabric and time.

Placing the tape

1.  Always block your fabric to be sure it is true to the grainline.

2. Using 1/8” black art tape on your mannequin, create a neckline, waistline, back plunge, or whatever details you would like in your finished design. These will serve as your guidelines.

3. Once you’re happy with the look of the tape, use a fabric similar to your finished design fabric, and drape, using your guidelines. If you use your actual fabric you will not have a pattern to re-use, so use a fabric with the same construction and weight as your actual dress will have.

Note: Unless I’m making an asymmetrical design, I like to drape only one side of the mannequin. 1) It can help me decide whether to put my front or back center piece on a fold just by what the fabric is doing. 2) It takes less fabric.

            

Pin down the center front

4. Always start with the center front and pin down the grainline so your   fabric stays true.

Cut away bodice, but leave pinned

5.  Remember, you may need to add darts or tucks to keep the grainline true. I added a dart in the front and two in the back of the skirt.

6.  Once you like your creation, mark all seamlines, special    placements, etc. on your sloper carefully.

Add the skirt along the bodice line

Add the back of the dress

            7.  Now you are ready to take the
            dress off the dress form.

            8.  Double check that everything is marked and then you can cut  
             around the pieces to create a paper pattern. Don’t forget to add seam allowances, notches, and other things that will help you sew together your new design.

            9.  Add seam allowances and use this as your pattern. When garment is complete, make final adjustments and transfer to paper pattern.

Remember to keep darts and grainlines true

Add seam allowances, mark gathering places